For the most part, the aforementioned procedures will take care of your entire landscape. The few exceptions would be specialty shrubs, trees and perennials that require a low pH level such as AZALEAS, CAMELLIAS, AJUGA, DOGWOODS, etc. Our soil is very alkaline so you'll need to apply other organic products such as RUFFIN and DISPERSUL and BUNNY TRAILS or AZALEA FOOD from RABBIT HILL FARM.

For any shrubs. trees, perennials or roses that aren't blooming as much as they could, should or I'd like, I top dress with HUMALF A'S HUMORE, usually once a year. This product is the closest thing to MAGIC that I've found in years! It also works miracles on lawns...

NOTE: Specialty amendments should be done in between the times of your scheduled fertilizations.

STEP THREE: PLANTING should always be done using the "wet-to-wet" method. Plant well-watered plants in wet soil using wet amendments. So called "shock" is caused by plant roots touching dry surfaces. When planting perennials and annuals I use a handful of worm castings [RABBIT HILL FARM's] and soft rock phosphate mixed 50/50 into each hole. Always water new plantings in with two tablespoons of MAXICROP seaweed to one gallon of water.
When planting trees and shrubs, I always add some compost to native soil, or if it's a blooming shrub or tree, I add compost and worm castings to native soil.
In new beds, add 3-4 inches of compost and dig into native soil to a depth of no more than 8 inches. For a good source of trace minerals that will help break up compacted soil, add 3 cups of LAVA SAND per 100 sq. ft. or 30 Ibs. per 1000 sq. ft. For more planting information read the planting guides by Patricia Cowan.

Adding earthworms to your beds and compost pile will really get things jumping ahead of schedule. Earthworms aerate your soil and leave behind an ingredient only they can produce...a substance richer than humic acid. One pound of earthworms will produce one million worms in one year. for best reproduction, divide one pound of worms into no more than three parts and place them in as many areas.

STEP FOUR: MULCH ALL BARE SOIL. Mulch helps maintain moisture in the: soil, controls weeds and keeps disease at bay.

r use only finely shredded hardwood bark as mulch. It has a nice rich color and will easily mesh together. To 'set in' your mulch after applying...spray the mulch with a hose and pat it down with your hands or the back of a shovel. Once the mulch is dry it forms a lovely carpet-like protection that you can feed and water through; yet, weeds can't wiggle up . through this thick layer.
NOTE: Do not put out mulch on dry soil. Apply mulch either after a rain shower or your sprinkler system has run through its cycle.

STEP FIVE: DO NOT BAG YOUR GRASS CLIPPINGS when you mow. Mow your grass at about 2-2t inches. Allow the grass to grow no more than 1/3 over the desired height before mowing again. The clippings will decompose, creating humus and faad for microbes. [You should not experience a thatch build-up on an organic program.) Any excess clippings should be added to the compost pile.

STEP SIX: COMPOST your leaves, . grass clippings, food scraps [no meat or fats], coffee grounds, animal manure[no cat waste], sawdust, bark, alfalfa hay, weeds and all soft plant materials. I am a passive [lazy] composter...I throw everything in a pile and let it rot. Please
be sure to position a compost pile AWAY from any wooden fence or structure, otherwise, you might find that a bit more than you planned on is being 'composted'. Passive composting requires patience, about 8 or 9 months worth, and a little common sense. The common sense part comes in
and create odors. Remember: To avoid problems. always cover wet material with dry material.